This past year my neighbor requested 3 sides of their home replaced with the same 1 X 6 beveled lap siding originally used when our homes were built. However, the thinnest portion at the top was only 1/16" thick, and had newer material specially milled with that same end 1/4" thick. This may sound picky, but giving that extra amount at the top, and underneath lap, material would be less likely to crack/split and curl.
Once old cedar siding was removed, we called out utility company alerting them we were pulling back breakerbox from siding. This did not cost any additional expense, and seemed to be happy we included them in our construction operations. Once removed from siding (home still had power) we installed vapor barrier Tyvek before new cedar went up. This product is great, sealing out wind, moisture, still allowing to only breathe outward. This helps the R factor, especaially in our weather conditions and climate changes.
Once Tyvek was installed horizontally, overlapping from top to bottom, cedar was ready to go up. We fastened with very few galvanized 8 penny nails, say 1%, using primarily 1 1/2" galvanized screws from a squarehead Senco screw gun. This way as the wind may kick up on occassions, and temperture changes occur, and any movements to siding will be very less likely, fastening down with screws instead of nails. I know ring shank nails work ok, but nothing like screws!
Another good idea, is after new cedar is insalled, allow it to dry out from the mill a couple weeks before any stain is applied. Most painting companies will not want to do this, as it holds up completion, but lumberyards will tell you different. Treating each job as if were our very own, you cannot go wrong choosing Eco Paint Specialist's for your painting and siding needs.
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