Siding Repair and Replacements

This topic deals with the deterioration and major causes to exterior siding which has been seen countless times throughout Colorado. What appears to be nails sunk further into wood siding, maybe because nailgun pressures were set too high, is not the case at all. Also appears siding has "Thickened" towards the bottom of each board, or another word to describe, is swelled out.

First, if left unanswered, you will be finding yourself replacing entire siding, when a little bit of precaution could have prevented. What is going on here is the exterior needed to be painted a few years after it was built. New home contractors only require a "Fog coat" paint job, that will typically last 3 years max. After that, the exterior surfaces are running on borrowed time.
After the "Fog coat" has broken down, the nail heads are left exposed. Rain and snow finds it's way around the nail shafts (least resistance) into the inner pressed wood man-made siding, typically Masonite™. Masonite is a great material when protected, but not worth it's weight if not cared for. Moisture seeps into shafts, causing the siding to swell. Nails that hold siding in place do not move, siding does! Siding is continually swelling, nails appear to sink deeper and deeper, but siding is swelling outwards.

There is a way to stop this, and I've seen many homes who had an attempt to repair, used the wrong material all together. Yes, the moisture was stopped, but guess what? As the paint aged, what was left was a POKE A DOTTED house. Using a latex caulk filling in nail holes is the worst thing you can do even if you plan on staying or moving. Someone is eventually see these small dots, as caulking does not break down to a flat finish as paint does. This can be seen standing to the side, looking down the exterior on an aged paint job.

What we use, that protects from moisture, and becomes the same sheen over time is Exterior Spackling. It goes on and dries to a flat finish. This is important, because when a Semi-gloss or Satin finish (most widely used) becomes aged, it flatens out, and spackling will not flash out, being all the same sheen. Satin finishes cover caulking nicely at first, matching with caulking sheen, but over the years, the two are entirely different.

We hope you call us here at Eco Paint Specialist's, but if you don't, insist on Exterior Spackling filling in those unsightly nail-head holes, because eventually you'll wished you had.
Cal Phillips/Eco Paint Specialist's/303.591.4978 http://www.ecopaintspecialists.com/ or~ Painting Denver

Flooring Wholesale, all Types Included

Several years ago, when customers called for interior painting, they mentioned they wished to replace carpet, and flooring. Yes, painting comes first, and they were right in construction processes. I thought how I could help homeowners save in another home improvement sector all together, while providing interior painting service. Since receiving our flooring wholesale program, we have saved countless customers up to 40% off retail pricing on all flooring products made. If your in the market for interior painting and flooring, do your pocketbook a favor and call us. Interior painting is not a prerequisite saving on flooring needs, but is the reason why we became envolved.
Cal Phillips/Eco Paint Specialist's/303.591.4978 www.ecopaintspecialists.com

Siding Repair and Replacements

http://www.ecopaintspecialists.com/

Dating back to 1990, buying our cedar sided home here in Aurora, most homes in our subdivision had cedar beveled lap siding, and is where we improved the industry standards, using screws instead of nails. Yes, cement coated nails tend to not pull or work themselves out, but over time, with the wind and house settling they do. Another reason we are in the siding repair and replacement business is many paint jobs require some degree of repair, making ourselves available to the homeowner for a turn-key operation.
Making better than original, we also install tyvek vapor barriers, before new siding goes back up. This allows house to breathe outwards, but not inwards, keeping the cold out.
Over the years, we've had the pleasure helping countless homeowners and businesses bring siding issues back to new standards, many without full replacements, so call Eco Paint Specialist's today for any exterior painting and siding concerns.

Cal Phillips/Eco Paint Specialist's/303.591.4978 http://www.ecopaintspecialists.com/

Deck Stains and Finishes

Much to be said on Deck Stains and Finishes, typically two forms of deck stains I'll mention. Either Semi-Transparent or Solid Body. Both have their pros and cons. However, if maintained in either case, both will protect and last for your outside enjoyment.
Semi-Trans allows the beauty of the wood grain to show through, and typically oil based, however many come in a Greener type, water based. Both equally good in today's research. Semi-Trans will never peel, crack, and flake, but tends to dry out more quickly, until you have several coats applied over the years. Most good oil stains have a Linseed Oil base, and ones that have the most, tend to be the best in protection; Such as Super Deck, sold by Kwal-Howell. Ones to stay away as far as you can is Thompsons Water Seal, with little to no protection values. I've personally seen decks that had Thompsons applied 3 months before, looked like barn wood.
Solid Body Deck Stains are exactly what they do, having 50% stain, and 50% paint body or mill left on top. Very durable, and long lasting, it covers up the wood grain, as a paint would. Benefits include not having to power wash so extensively before product is applied. It covers up wood imprefections very well, making a "Like new" finish. Another benefit is, when it's time, never having to power wash before additional coats, except only to lightly rinse off, getting dirt and debris off.
Solid Body Stains, once used is very difficult to go back to Sem-Trans, as every bit of SBDS has to be removed. Think about it. Semi-Trans does not cover, and you would see every bit of SBS if not removed, if left under a Semi-Trans.
There is one more type, leaving last to mention, that is the best in the industry, which I personally have on mine now, having expereinced both others over the years. It is called Translucent. Even having the best still requires some maintaince, as nothing will last forever, especially horizontal surfaces such as decks and handrails. I must say that after two coats of Sikken's Deck Stain, the following applications took very little coating, making it simply exquistite and extraordinaire. When explaining to customers what Sikken's is like, I refer to Baby Grand Pianos attached to the exterior. A deep luxurious finish as if a laquer finish was put over stain. This Translucent makes for a slick finish that during snow falls, the snow cannot grab, therefore can easily be pushed off the deck floor, adding to the longevity and durability, as snow is any stains worst enemy. After several years and several additional coats, this stain makes the deck surface bullet proof so to speak, as Creosotes would do. Creosotes for those not familiar are products applied to telephone poles. Sikken's only comes in a limited number of color choices (I think 15-20) as it cannot be tinted to an exact match as the two mentioned above, but if can use it, it's well worth the extra effort. Sikkens also is about 3-4 times the cost of typcial deck stains, but as additional coats are applied, cost drops below 50% of other deck stain applications. Reason for this is Sikkens has to be brushed on. Not back-rolled, nor sprayed, as others can be, it must be worked into wood with several brush strokes on every square inch of surface. Once applied, second and subsequent coats require less product. I just re-coated my deck last summer, having two prior coats of Sikkens before. My deck has appox. 500 square feet of surface, and third application only took 1/2 gallon!!!
Having extensive knowledge of deck finishes, we at Eco Paint Specialist's can bring your deck back to life, protecting from the climates and elements for years to come.
Cal Phillips/Eco Paint Specialist's/303.591.4978

Interior Painting

Whether painting a bathroom or kitchen, ceiling painting, trim painting, or the entire home, we at Eco Paint Specialist's can take care of all your interior painting needs. Knowing interior is inconvenient but wishing for work, we limit the inconvenience by asking home owner to pull pictures, leaving nails if placing exactly in original spot. If thinking of placing in different, we ask homeowner to pull the nails, that way we fill all holes, painting over nails left in walls. This adds to the ease and limits time within the home. We take care of moving all furniture, placing back in origianl spots. We can assist you in your interior design, one that you'll be proud of for many years to come.
Cal Phillips/Eco Paint Specialist's/303.591.4978 http://www.ecopaintspecialists.com/

Exterior Painting Denver Metro Area

Bring your house back to life with a new fresh exterior paint job, protecting your home from the harsh elements and climates Colorado has from time to time. Waiting or putting off can result in more costly repairs not originally seen. Eco Paint Specialists takes pride in helping our local community protecting exterior surfaces of many's largest investments, the home.
Giving you a compete schedule for your exterior painting project, with estimated time of completion, and estimated number of workers we plan putting on the job.
Not cutting any corners, we power wash first, leaving to dry for 24-48 hours. Then upon second arrival we get to work. Scraping, Caulking, and Priming, we insure our paint job will last for many years to come. Providing a 3 year Workmanship warranty, and paint typically has it's warranty 15-20 years. After our prep. is completed, we spray the body 2 coats, and brush and roll the trim 2, putting on 13 mills wet. This is the most paint that can be applied before it will sag, run, or drip.
Each day, we police the grounds, picking up debris, cleaning up before we leave, doing the same at the end. Call us today for your free estimate. Cal Phillips 303.591.4978 or see us at http://www.ecopaintspecialists.com/ / http://www.paintingexterior.net / http://www.paintinginterior.net/ http://www.paintingdenver.net

Interior Painting Tips

Let's get right into the meat of this subject, without any intros or thank you. If you are considering doing interior painting yourself, I commend you for your assertiveness, as many get into this venture, only to hire a professional. Tips below will make your task at hand much more easier and professional when you get to the end.



Before you bust open a can of paint, you should;



1) Take some pictures of your rooms. Pictures taken will come in handy upon completion, putting decor back exactly as it was before.



2) Remove all wall hangings, leaving nails if you wish to place back exactly after painting. If you plan on re-arranging decor, simply pull the nails.



3) Now that you have taken pics, removed wall hangings, leaving or removing nails, it's time to start the preparations. This part of the painting project is the most important, as if done properly will make you a shinning star with your spouse, not to mention, will look as professional as possible.



4) Tools you will need;



a. Depending on how much painting is to be done, will determine the size of roller. Most people use the typical 9" roller with typical roller pan. If you have several rooms, and lots of sq. footage of walls/ceilings, I would recommend a 14" roller. 18" rollers are way too heavy loaded with paint for the common paint job, but has it's value when back-rolling say and exterior application. 9" rollers way too small, and 18" rollers too heavy. 14" rollers are also not available in typical retail chains such as Lowe's, Home Depot's. Here in Denver, your Sherwin-William's, Kwal-Howell's Paint Stores, Benjamin Moore's, ICI's, are the places to pick these up. The best one is Labat's with wooden handle and steel frame. No plastic fall apart made in China, after 1 hour of use. Do yourself a favor and spend a few more dollars getting the best. If you are painting ceilings with popcorn, get a 1 1/4-1 1/2"" thick roller skin, if knock-down texture, use a 3/4" skin. If painting both, get both size skins, as you will not want to intermix them. One for ceilings, one for walls. You will need a special roller pan designed for the extra wide roller, and vary in price. We use "Speed Buckets", as the are low to the ground, has a pour spout, and hangers for ladders.



b. Let's talk brushes. For goodness sakes, do not get a 1"-2" brush no matter how good looking and cute they may be. Each brush stroke requires the same amount of effort, so speed up the process with a larger one. Best brush, gives best results, and the ol' saying, you get what you pay for is so profound when buying brushes. Best brushes made are the Purdee's. Purdee's have the thickest base, holding the most paint, without running down the handle. Also, Purdee's will leave the smoothest strokes, with little to no brush strokes. Go with a 3 1/2" - 4" angle Purdee if you plan doing trim, and 4" Pip squared end for large surfaces such as doors.



c. You will need a masker and blade. 3-M has a patent on these, and you cannot go too far astray getting one, however blade is equally important. DO NOT GET A PAPER BLADE. The metal blades designed for cutting plastic will also cut paper, but metal blades designed for cutting paper, will not cut plastic. Both cost the same, however metal blades designed for cutting plastic film have a finer serrated edge, making much sharper.



d. Now you have roller/pan/masker/blade, you need to get a few more items that may be in the garage.





Proper ladders, A-frames, Extensions. One small jobs we like Little Giant's, a

versatile ladder that converts from A-frame to extension in a matter of

seconds. Just be sure it is rated for your weight. Typically a B rated is industry

standards.

Extension pole for roller. If not high ceilings, and just walls, a telescoping 4' - 8'

e-pole is the best.

Drippless Caulking gun

Razor knife with new blades

5-Way painter's tool that has a half moon cutout on one side of blade

Masking tape, (blue if your painting walls a different color than ceilings/baseboards

Plastic film, size depends on need, but if rolling/brushing, no more than 4' wide is

needed.

Brown paper, either 9" or 12" for paint grade applications. (one roll per 10' X 10' rm)

1 tube of latex caulk per 10' X 10' rm

Box of good stain rags

2 1/2 gallon cut-in bucket with ladder hook, purchased separately

Flathead screwdriver, removing switch plates, curtian rods, etc.

Tip #1

5) Tape around door jambs, and floor areas. If floor is carpeted, press carpet down, tape as low as you can to baseboard. If floor is wood, tape wood floor as close to base as you can. Once taped, it's time to caulk. Cut tube at a angle taking off just the tip. This way, only a small amount will come out of your "Drippless Caulking Gun". Caulk tape lines using finger to wipe excess, and even going a step further, wiping with a sopping wet rag. Your wipping off as much caulk as you can, leaving only a film of caulk to seal tape edge, so that paint does not migrate under it. When you pull the tape, only the finest amount is there that cannot be detected.

6) If you are rolling/brushing walls only, no need to mask entire floor, but ceilings YES. Having a good drop-cloth is a plus. We use a drop, putting down as a work station, pouring into pans/buckets. On large walls, especially high ones, a good 4' X 15' runner drop is good to have. Having more than one will most likely ensure one will always be dry, and your not tracking paint splatters on to non-covered areas. So stretch out both side by side along wall areas, moving from one to another as work finishes. Picking up last one moving down past the other. On a typical 8' ceiling height, it's good to stay away from wall surface at least 4'. 16' high wall, 8' away, using e-pole lengths accordingly.



7) Now you have the tools of the trade, your ready to really get started, and let's say your painting walls, ceiling, and trim, as most of the time this is done with different colors and sheens. You start with the top, working down, and we will be working with the top of walls first. It is much easier to mask walls than ceilings. So, take your brush with wall paint and cut in corner on wall to ceiling, not caring too much of getting wall paint on ceiling, as I will describe later. However, dark colors are harder to cover, so you be the judge. After you cut in walls to ceilings, stop, and take a break, because you will need it for the work quickly approching.

7) Finish cutting in all tape joints, around doors, electrical outlets, corners of rooms. This way you can roll with ease, overlapping paint with roller, for a "Second coat".


7) Drop floor area, pour mixed paint into speed bucket, roll into paint, getting roller thoroughly saturated and loaded with paint. Start with one corner, working along one side of ceiling.



Now here is Tip #1. As you re-dip roller, always keep roller frame pointed the same direction, as I say the frame is an arrow of direction in the way you are traveling. Do not flip roller frame back and forth rolling out surfaces, or you will have heavy, thicker lines of paint when dried. Think of frame as the arrow, and the direction you will be going, as you cannot start against a wall on ceiling with the frame pointed to wall anyway. Keep this tip throughout entire paint job, and your on your way to a uniform finish. That's not to say coming to a corner you cannot fudge a bit, feathering out last row, but use the frame as an arrow 99% of the time. Roller frames have a different amount of pressure when rolling, and will cause the uneven paint lines, if "Flipping" or reversing roller frame each time after dipping it, so you've been warned.



7) Now the ceilings have been rolled out, it's time for walls. Using ladder, cut-bucket and angle brush, you'll want to cut in walls to ceiling. Taking long strokes close to the top is after you've slowly cut in, bending bristles