Wednesday, February 3, 2016
Thursday, January 28, 2016
Thursday, December 10, 2009
GOOGLETERM
Eco Paint Specialist's is proud to annouce it's newest web site Painting Denver, a keyword phrase for a geo-targeted area. Within the site, services include interior painting, exterior painting, drywall textures, siding repairs and replacements, and lead abatements. A one stop shop for all your painting needs.
An older site of Eco Paint Specialist's with a 7 year history is Eco Paint's first web site, which has much to offer using Enviornmentally Friendly Green Eco Paints, now available. Ths originator of the term Eco Paint, coining the phrase back in 1993, long before Green Earth Friendly Paints were available for retail purchases.
More specific targeted web sites include Painting Interior & Painting Exterior, providing specific information for each area of house painting expertise
An older site of Eco Paint Specialist's with a 7 year history is Eco Paint's first web site, which has much to offer using Enviornmentally Friendly Green Eco Paints, now available. Ths originator of the term Eco Paint, coining the phrase back in 1993, long before Green Earth Friendly Paints were available for retail purchases.
More specific targeted web sites include Painting Interior & Painting Exterior, providing specific information for each area of house painting expertise
Thursday, June 18, 2009
Painting Lesson 101
Painting Tip 101
 |
| Painting Tip 101 |
Cal Phillips here again, owner of Eco Paint, Inc. w/35+ years experience, I want to once in for all, put in written form which product to use covering voids of substrates.
Way too many times I've seen improper use of both Spackle and caulk, and will examine both, for the first painting tip.
A. Spackel-ing, Spackle, is a lightweight compound, in a tub/bucket container, which dries quickly, to a flat finish, either used interior or exterior.
B. Caulk is typically a latex based, silicone embodied caulk in a tube container, which dries within several hours, to a dry paint-able, gloss finish.
Caulking guns can easily dispense large quantities of compound at a quick speed, which makes this way too easy to fill voids that should be filled with Spackle, which takes much more time for a smooth, uniform finish.
Main point is that Caulk should be administered in cracks where two substrates come together at usually a 90 degree angle. Caulk should not be used in nail holes on an exterior or interior wall. Weathered exterior siding, nails will appear to be sunken in, as to the nail-gun had too much air pressure, which is certainly not the case. What is going on is exterior paint has broken down, moisture getting into nail shafts, swelling Masonite siding like a sponge. Nails to not move, as the siding has been seen to swell twice it's thickness. Although the siding is in dire need of replacement at some point in the near future, caulking should never be used filling nail heads. What happens if caulk is used, and 15-25 years later when exterior paint that once had a satin finish, now has a flat sheen, areas that were caulked will still be shiny and polka-dotted, shiny spots on a flat wall. This is true even on interior wall surfaces, Spackle should be used in a open surface area, and not caulk.
Knowing many painting contractors do a great job in the Denver area, with all the new contractors picking up a brush, this is one thing that should not be done at any circumstance, making the surface worse in the long run far more than leaving as is. Both products seal nail holes, but one is made for this, and the other is not.
Good Luck,
Cal Phillips/owner
Eco Paint, Inc.
303.591.4978
Friday, March 13, 2009
Green Jobs Slated to Grow
Considering an environmental career? Start your Green Job search here
Current predictions that the green job sector will continue to grow as other sectors suffer are a great incentive to get skilled in sustainability. The Canada-based Environmental Careers Organization forecasts that employment growth in green sector jobs will have surpassed Canada’s national average by 23 percent by 2011. Plus, two-thirds of existing green employers are slated to boost their hiring in the next two years. In a tough job market, it’s even better news that sectors not traditionally associated with being green—such as marketing or construction—are also poised to hire more staff to support their environmental initiatives.
Not sure where to begin? Read up on emerging green work opportunities in planning and design, business, media and science, and use the links and resources on each slide to get started on your dream eco job search today.
image courtesy istockphoto.com/eyeidea
Current predictions that the green job sector will continue to grow as other sectors suffer are a great incentive to get skilled in sustainability. The Canada-based Environmental Careers Organization forecasts that employment growth in green sector jobs will have surpassed Canada’s national average by 23 percent by 2011. Plus, two-thirds of existing green employers are slated to boost their hiring in the next two years. In a tough job market, it’s even better news that sectors not traditionally associated with being green—such as marketing or construction—are also poised to hire more staff to support their environmental initiatives.
Not sure where to begin? Read up on emerging green work opportunities in planning and design, business, media and science, and use the links and resources on each slide to get started on your dream eco job search today.
image courtesy istockphoto.com/eyeidea
Sunday, March 1, 2009
Eco Paint Specialist’s, serving Denver CO. USA, and the front- range as a residential painting company, oldest house painting service, based in Aurora CO., your exterior painting company to choose, for all your interior and exterior painting needs. Whether you are looking to have a smaller paint trim package, painting exterior trim, paint walls and ceiling painting inside, or painting exterior walls, or complete exterior home painting, we are a step above the rest. Paint exterior trim can be a value for just sprucing up, or some problem areas and concern. Having paint exterior homes for years, we have probably painted in your block and neighborhood over the course, and would be more than happy to point any out, along with giving you a current reference list.
Painting exteriors is not an easy task done properly, and we at Eco Paint Specialist’s go the full mile, insuring the exterior paint company you have chosen, will not be needed back for many years to come. We offer a 3 year workmanship warranty, which is transferable, and paint warranties all the way up to lifetime.
Whether you have a general idea of exterior colors, we at Eco Paint Specialist’s can give assistance in these important decisions by sampling on home on several areas, to get a better picture, say from the curb, especially when exterior color changes are thought. Reason for this is smaller 2” paint swatches found in paint stores are harder to imagine on entire home. We will buy the first two/three samples in gallons, brushing on in conspicuous areas for your approval. Your paint exterior house task is just as important as the next, building loyalty, references and referrals, which is why each exterior painting job is taken with the most care, expertise and supervision.
A typical exterior paint job includes but not limited to the following;
Before any exterior painting takes place, we first power wash and pressure clean exterior substrates, removing flaking paint, dust, and debris. 24-48 hours later, we hand scrape, testing painted areas for adhesion, and removing those not properly adhered.
Using an oil or latex primer, all bare wood areas receive primer, especially horizontal areas such as windows and handrails. Some of the best exterior paints such as Kwal, Sherwin-Williams, Ben Moore, Glidden, ICI Dulux, Valspar, and Devoe will adhere to primer much better than to bare wood itself. Trim paint is typically the first thing to go, and is why so much care is given in this regard. Paint trim only after scrapping trim, then priming trim. During scrapping, we lay tarps down, catching the majority of flaking paint, picking up all the rest.
After priming has been completed, Eco Paint caulks all previous caulked areas, removing old, replacing with new. This is important because caulking over old caulk that has separated from one substrate will continue, even if caulked over with newer. Caulking other areas that may have not ever received caulk originally is facia to soffit. Some builders do not require this, but when done, our painting exteriors over the years, look 100%.
Another area of exterior painting that we at Eco Paint Specialist’s excel with is deck restorations, deck staining, staining deck, fence staining and their appropriate finishes. Having had personal experience with most types of stains over the years with my own deck and fence stains, we can bring yours back to life and protected for your summer outdoor enjoyment.
There are basically two types of deck sealants to consider. One being a semi-transparent and other being solid body. Both have attributes the other does not. Careful consideration should be made if no stain is present, because this is the stain you should stick with for maintenance applications with the least and minimal costs, for years to come. If a deck has been weathered and grayed, it can easily be brought back to life with a Eco Friendly Deck Cleaner and power washing. Many top paint manufactures have these cleaning deck products today, and are reasonably priced. Some are concentrates, one gallon making five, while others are used straight. Behr, Sherwin-Williams Deck Scapes, Olympic, Kwal Wood Kraft, Super Deck are some of the best stains. All come in either Semi or Solid, and will last typically two years without recoating, or maintenance touch-ups, depending on foot traffic. Snow is a stain’s worst enemy, and should be removed just as the driveways are shoveled. I know this is dreaded, but for the wife, maybe you only have to cook an extra course of his favorite each time this is done. Deck staining, staining deck products have come a full circle with today’s technology, giving credence to a much more durable finish and protection, however, Stay away from Thompsons Water Seal! Worst stuff STILL on the market, as I rarely speak negative about any product. If you’re insistent upon buying it, give me the $25 per gallon, and I’ll use your water hose wetting it down, because that is about the same results. I’ve personally seen several decks stained with this 3 months afterwards, re-staining with a SuperDeck linseed oil based, to the unsuspecting and naïve.
I personally have mentioned having had several types, one a solid, then stripped, sanded and scraped to apply semi-trans. Once it was time again, I used Sikkens, and cannot say enough, knowing this is the best stain to date. What makes a best stain in my book is wood protection. Sikkens has more alkyds from so many, I too am enjoying its preservation and lasting beauty. Stain Sikkens is a “Translucent”, with a desired gloss. Cannot be tinted, and must be brushed, and not sprayed, or rolled, working into grain. Once this two coat process is accomplished, very little is required each subsequent application. Typically an average 4 gallon deck would take the first time, only ½ gallon is needed from that point on for each additional application, as I’m a testament to this. Sikkens finishes are generally slicker, making snow removal a chinch, sliding off 12” with a push of a broom. Neighbors on the other hand either dismiss it all together, or have a grand time with it, shoveling like there’s no tomorrow. Sikkens may cost 4-5 times more initially, but pays for itself within 5-6 years. I tell my customers it’s like a Baby Grand Piano attached to your home, looking that exquisite. Staining decks is an absolute necessity for its preservation, and should be enjoyed during that same time. Once the deck shows bare or graying, or in the case of stainSikkens, dulled finish, deck staining should be on the To Do List, sooner than later. Eco Paint Specialist’s can provide maintenance visits, caring for your deck for a minimal expense. Call and ask about it today. 303.591.4978 see us at www.ecopaintspecialists.com / www.paintingexterior.net / www.paintinginterior.net
Painting exteriors is not an easy task done properly, and we at Eco Paint Specialist’s go the full mile, insuring the exterior paint company you have chosen, will not be needed back for many years to come. We offer a 3 year workmanship warranty, which is transferable, and paint warranties all the way up to lifetime.
Whether you have a general idea of exterior colors, we at Eco Paint Specialist’s can give assistance in these important decisions by sampling on home on several areas, to get a better picture, say from the curb, especially when exterior color changes are thought. Reason for this is smaller 2” paint swatches found in paint stores are harder to imagine on entire home. We will buy the first two/three samples in gallons, brushing on in conspicuous areas for your approval. Your paint exterior house task is just as important as the next, building loyalty, references and referrals, which is why each exterior painting job is taken with the most care, expertise and supervision.
A typical exterior paint job includes but not limited to the following;
Before any exterior painting takes place, we first power wash and pressure clean exterior substrates, removing flaking paint, dust, and debris. 24-48 hours later, we hand scrape, testing painted areas for adhesion, and removing those not properly adhered.
Using an oil or latex primer, all bare wood areas receive primer, especially horizontal areas such as windows and handrails. Some of the best exterior paints such as Kwal, Sherwin-Williams, Ben Moore, Glidden, ICI Dulux, Valspar, and Devoe will adhere to primer much better than to bare wood itself. Trim paint is typically the first thing to go, and is why so much care is given in this regard. Paint trim only after scrapping trim, then priming trim. During scrapping, we lay tarps down, catching the majority of flaking paint, picking up all the rest.
After priming has been completed, Eco Paint caulks all previous caulked areas, removing old, replacing with new. This is important because caulking over old caulk that has separated from one substrate will continue, even if caulked over with newer. Caulking other areas that may have not ever received caulk originally is facia to soffit. Some builders do not require this, but when done, our painting exteriors over the years, look 100%.
Another area of exterior painting that we at Eco Paint Specialist’s excel with is deck restorations, deck staining, staining deck, fence staining and their appropriate finishes. Having had personal experience with most types of stains over the years with my own deck and fence stains, we can bring yours back to life and protected for your summer outdoor enjoyment.
There are basically two types of deck sealants to consider. One being a semi-transparent and other being solid body. Both have attributes the other does not. Careful consideration should be made if no stain is present, because this is the stain you should stick with for maintenance applications with the least and minimal costs, for years to come. If a deck has been weathered and grayed, it can easily be brought back to life with a Eco Friendly Deck Cleaner and power washing. Many top paint manufactures have these cleaning deck products today, and are reasonably priced. Some are concentrates, one gallon making five, while others are used straight. Behr, Sherwin-Williams Deck Scapes, Olympic, Kwal Wood Kraft, Super Deck are some of the best stains. All come in either Semi or Solid, and will last typically two years without recoating, or maintenance touch-ups, depending on foot traffic. Snow is a stain’s worst enemy, and should be removed just as the driveways are shoveled. I know this is dreaded, but for the wife, maybe you only have to cook an extra course of his favorite each time this is done. Deck staining, staining deck products have come a full circle with today’s technology, giving credence to a much more durable finish and protection, however, Stay away from Thompsons Water Seal! Worst stuff STILL on the market, as I rarely speak negative about any product. If you’re insistent upon buying it, give me the $25 per gallon, and I’ll use your water hose wetting it down, because that is about the same results. I’ve personally seen several decks stained with this 3 months afterwards, re-staining with a SuperDeck linseed oil based, to the unsuspecting and naïve.
I personally have mentioned having had several types, one a solid, then stripped, sanded and scraped to apply semi-trans. Once it was time again, I used Sikkens, and cannot say enough, knowing this is the best stain to date. What makes a best stain in my book is wood protection. Sikkens has more alkyds from so many, I too am enjoying its preservation and lasting beauty. Stain Sikkens is a “Translucent”, with a desired gloss. Cannot be tinted, and must be brushed, and not sprayed, or rolled, working into grain. Once this two coat process is accomplished, very little is required each subsequent application. Typically an average 4 gallon deck would take the first time, only ½ gallon is needed from that point on for each additional application, as I’m a testament to this. Sikkens finishes are generally slicker, making snow removal a chinch, sliding off 12” with a push of a broom. Neighbors on the other hand either dismiss it all together, or have a grand time with it, shoveling like there’s no tomorrow. Sikkens may cost 4-5 times more initially, but pays for itself within 5-6 years. I tell my customers it’s like a Baby Grand Piano attached to your home, looking that exquisite. Staining decks is an absolute necessity for its preservation, and should be enjoyed during that same time. Once the deck shows bare or graying, or in the case of stainSikkens, dulled finish, deck staining should be on the To Do List, sooner than later. Eco Paint Specialist’s can provide maintenance visits, caring for your deck for a minimal expense. Call and ask about it today. 303.591.4978 see us at www.ecopaintspecialists.com / www.paintingexterior.net / www.paintinginterior.net
Sunday, February 22, 2009
Siding Repair and Replacements
This topic deals with the deterioration and major causes to exterior siding which has been seen countless times throughout Colorado. What appears to be nails sunk further into wood siding, maybe because nailgun pressures were set too high, is not the case at all. Also appears siding has "Thickened" towards the bottom of each board, or another word to describe, is swelled out.
First, if left unanswered, you will be finding yourself replacing entire siding, when a little bit of precaution could have prevented. What is going on here is the exterior needed to be painted a few years after it was built. New home contractors only require a "Fog coat" paint job, that will typically last 3 years max. After that, the exterior surfaces are running on borrowed time.
After the "Fog coat" has broken down, the nail heads are left exposed. Rain and snow finds it's way around the nail shafts (least resistance) into the inner pressed wood man-made siding, typically Masonite™. Masonite is a great material when protected, but not worth it's weight if not cared for. Moisture seeps into shafts, causing the siding to swell. Nails that hold siding in place do not move, siding does! Siding is continually swelling, nails appear to sink deeper and deeper, but siding is swelling outwards.
There is a way to stop this, and I've seen many homes who had an attempt to repair, used the wrong material all together. Yes, the moisture was stopped, but guess what? As the paint aged, what was left was a POKE A DOTTED house. Using a latex caulk filling in nail holes is the worst thing you can do even if you plan on staying or moving. Someone is eventually see these small dots, as caulking does not break down to a flat finish as paint does. This can be seen standing to the side, looking down the exterior on an aged paint job.
What we use, that protects from moisture, and becomes the same sheen over time is Exterior Spackling. It goes on and dries to a flat finish. This is important, because when a Semi-gloss or Satin finish (most widely used) becomes aged, it flatens out, and spackling will not flash out, being all the same sheen. Satin finishes cover caulking nicely at first, matching with caulking sheen, but over the years, the two are entirely different.
We hope you call us here at Eco Paint Specialist's, but if you don't, insist on Exterior Spackling filling in those unsightly nail-head holes, because eventually you'll wished you had.
Cal Phillips/Eco Paint Specialist's/303.591.4978 http://www.ecopaintspecialists.com/ or~ Painting Denver
First, if left unanswered, you will be finding yourself replacing entire siding, when a little bit of precaution could have prevented. What is going on here is the exterior needed to be painted a few years after it was built. New home contractors only require a "Fog coat" paint job, that will typically last 3 years max. After that, the exterior surfaces are running on borrowed time.
After the "Fog coat" has broken down, the nail heads are left exposed. Rain and snow finds it's way around the nail shafts (least resistance) into the inner pressed wood man-made siding, typically Masonite™. Masonite is a great material when protected, but not worth it's weight if not cared for. Moisture seeps into shafts, causing the siding to swell. Nails that hold siding in place do not move, siding does! Siding is continually swelling, nails appear to sink deeper and deeper, but siding is swelling outwards.
There is a way to stop this, and I've seen many homes who had an attempt to repair, used the wrong material all together. Yes, the moisture was stopped, but guess what? As the paint aged, what was left was a POKE A DOTTED house. Using a latex caulk filling in nail holes is the worst thing you can do even if you plan on staying or moving. Someone is eventually see these small dots, as caulking does not break down to a flat finish as paint does. This can be seen standing to the side, looking down the exterior on an aged paint job.
What we use, that protects from moisture, and becomes the same sheen over time is Exterior Spackling. It goes on and dries to a flat finish. This is important, because when a Semi-gloss or Satin finish (most widely used) becomes aged, it flatens out, and spackling will not flash out, being all the same sheen. Satin finishes cover caulking nicely at first, matching with caulking sheen, but over the years, the two are entirely different.
We hope you call us here at Eco Paint Specialist's, but if you don't, insist on Exterior Spackling filling in those unsightly nail-head holes, because eventually you'll wished you had.
Cal Phillips/Eco Paint Specialist's/303.591.4978 http://www.ecopaintspecialists.com/ or~ Painting Denver
Flooring Wholesale, all Types Included
Several years ago, when customers called for interior painting, they mentioned they wished to replace carpet, and flooring. Yes, painting comes first, and they were right in construction processes. I thought how I could help homeowners save in another home improvement sector all together, while providing interior painting service. Since receiving our flooring wholesale program, we have saved countless customers up to 40% off retail pricing on all flooring products made. If your in the market for interior painting and flooring, do your pocketbook a favor and call us. Interior painting is not a prerequisite saving on flooring needs, but is the reason why we became envolved.
Cal Phillips/Eco Paint Specialist's/303.591.4978 www.ecopaintspecialists.com
Cal Phillips/Eco Paint Specialist's/303.591.4978 www.ecopaintspecialists.com
Siding Repair and Replacements
http://www.ecopaintspecialists.com/
Dating back to 1990, buying our cedar sided home here in Aurora, most homes in our subdivision had cedar beveled lap siding, and is where we improved the industry standards, using screws instead of nails. Yes, cement coated nails tend to not pull or work themselves out, but over time, with the wind and house settling they do. Another reason we are in the siding repair and replacement business is many paint jobs require some degree of repair, making ourselves available to the homeowner for a turn-key operation.
Making better than original, we also install tyvek vapor barriers, before new siding goes back up. This allows house to breathe outwards, but not inwards, keeping the cold out.
Over the years, we've had the pleasure helping countless homeowners and businesses bring siding issues back to new standards, many without full replacements, so call Eco Paint Specialist's today for any exterior painting and siding concerns.
Making better than original, we also install tyvek vapor barriers, before new siding goes back up. This allows house to breathe outwards, but not inwards, keeping the cold out.
Over the years, we've had the pleasure helping countless homeowners and businesses bring siding issues back to new standards, many without full replacements, so call Eco Paint Specialist's today for any exterior painting and siding concerns.
Cal Phillips/Eco Paint Specialist's/303.591.4978 http://www.ecopaintspecialists.com/
Deck Stains and Finishes
Much to be said on Deck Stains and Finishes, typically two forms of deck stains I'll mention. Either Semi-Transparent or Solid Body. Both have their pros and cons. However, if maintained in either case, both will protect and last for your outside enjoyment.
Semi-Trans allows the beauty of the wood grain to show through, and typically oil based, however many come in a Greener type, water based. Both equally good in today's research. Semi-Trans will never peel, crack, and flake, but tends to dry out more quickly, until you have several coats applied over the years. Most good oil stains have a Linseed Oil base, and ones that have the most, tend to be the best in protection; Such as Super Deck, sold by Kwal-Howell. Ones to stay away as far as you can is Thompsons Water Seal, with little to no protection values. I've personally seen decks that had Thompsons applied 3 months before, looked like barn wood.
Solid Body Deck Stains are exactly what they do, having 50% stain, and 50% paint body or mill left on top. Very durable, and long lasting, it covers up the wood grain, as a paint would. Benefits include not having to power wash so extensively before product is applied. It covers up wood imprefections very well, making a "Like new" finish. Another benefit is, when it's time, never having to power wash before additional coats, except only to lightly rinse off, getting dirt and debris off.
Solid Body Stains, once used is very difficult to go back to Sem-Trans, as every bit of SBDS has to be removed. Think about it. Semi-Trans does not cover, and you would see every bit of SBS if not removed, if left under a Semi-Trans.
There is one more type, leaving last to mention, that is the best in the industry, which I personally have on mine now, having expereinced both others over the years. It is called Translucent. Even having the best still requires some maintaince, as nothing will last forever, especially horizontal surfaces such as decks and handrails. I must say that after two coats of Sikken's Deck Stain, the following applications took very little coating, making it simply exquistite and extraordinaire. When explaining to customers what Sikken's is like, I refer to Baby Grand Pianos attached to the exterior. A deep luxurious finish as if a laquer finish was put over stain. This Translucent makes for a slick finish that during snow falls, the snow cannot grab, therefore can easily be pushed off the deck floor, adding to the longevity and durability, as snow is any stains worst enemy. After several years and several additional coats, this stain makes the deck surface bullet proof so to speak, as Creosotes would do. Creosotes for those not familiar are products applied to telephone poles. Sikken's only comes in a limited number of color choices (I think 15-20) as it cannot be tinted to an exact match as the two mentioned above, but if can use it, it's well worth the extra effort. Sikkens also is about 3-4 times the cost of typcial deck stains, but as additional coats are applied, cost drops below 50% of other deck stain applications. Reason for this is Sikkens has to be brushed on. Not back-rolled, nor sprayed, as others can be, it must be worked into wood with several brush strokes on every square inch of surface. Once applied, second and subsequent coats require less product. I just re-coated my deck last summer, having two prior coats of Sikkens before. My deck has appox. 500 square feet of surface, and third application only took 1/2 gallon!!!
Having extensive knowledge of deck finishes, we at Eco Paint Specialist's can bring your deck back to life, protecting from the climates and elements for years to come.
Cal Phillips/Eco Paint Specialist's/303.591.4978
Semi-Trans allows the beauty of the wood grain to show through, and typically oil based, however many come in a Greener type, water based. Both equally good in today's research. Semi-Trans will never peel, crack, and flake, but tends to dry out more quickly, until you have several coats applied over the years. Most good oil stains have a Linseed Oil base, and ones that have the most, tend to be the best in protection; Such as Super Deck, sold by Kwal-Howell. Ones to stay away as far as you can is Thompsons Water Seal, with little to no protection values. I've personally seen decks that had Thompsons applied 3 months before, looked like barn wood.
Solid Body Deck Stains are exactly what they do, having 50% stain, and 50% paint body or mill left on top. Very durable, and long lasting, it covers up the wood grain, as a paint would. Benefits include not having to power wash so extensively before product is applied. It covers up wood imprefections very well, making a "Like new" finish. Another benefit is, when it's time, never having to power wash before additional coats, except only to lightly rinse off, getting dirt and debris off.
Solid Body Stains, once used is very difficult to go back to Sem-Trans, as every bit of SBDS has to be removed. Think about it. Semi-Trans does not cover, and you would see every bit of SBS if not removed, if left under a Semi-Trans.
There is one more type, leaving last to mention, that is the best in the industry, which I personally have on mine now, having expereinced both others over the years. It is called Translucent. Even having the best still requires some maintaince, as nothing will last forever, especially horizontal surfaces such as decks and handrails. I must say that after two coats of Sikken's Deck Stain, the following applications took very little coating, making it simply exquistite and extraordinaire. When explaining to customers what Sikken's is like, I refer to Baby Grand Pianos attached to the exterior. A deep luxurious finish as if a laquer finish was put over stain. This Translucent makes for a slick finish that during snow falls, the snow cannot grab, therefore can easily be pushed off the deck floor, adding to the longevity and durability, as snow is any stains worst enemy. After several years and several additional coats, this stain makes the deck surface bullet proof so to speak, as Creosotes would do. Creosotes for those not familiar are products applied to telephone poles. Sikken's only comes in a limited number of color choices (I think 15-20) as it cannot be tinted to an exact match as the two mentioned above, but if can use it, it's well worth the extra effort. Sikkens also is about 3-4 times the cost of typcial deck stains, but as additional coats are applied, cost drops below 50% of other deck stain applications. Reason for this is Sikkens has to be brushed on. Not back-rolled, nor sprayed, as others can be, it must be worked into wood with several brush strokes on every square inch of surface. Once applied, second and subsequent coats require less product. I just re-coated my deck last summer, having two prior coats of Sikkens before. My deck has appox. 500 square feet of surface, and third application only took 1/2 gallon!!!
Having extensive knowledge of deck finishes, we at Eco Paint Specialist's can bring your deck back to life, protecting from the climates and elements for years to come.
Cal Phillips/Eco Paint Specialist's/303.591.4978
Interior Painting
Whether painting a bathroom or kitchen, ceiling painting, trim painting, or the entire home, we at Eco Paint Specialist's can take care of all your interior painting needs. Knowing interior is inconvenient but wishing for work, we limit the inconvenience by asking home owner to pull pictures, leaving nails if placing exactly in original spot. If thinking of placing in different, we ask homeowner to pull the nails, that way we fill all holes, painting over nails left in walls. This adds to the ease and limits time within the home. We take care of moving all furniture, placing back in origianl spots. We can assist you in your interior design, one that you'll be proud of for many years to come.
Cal Phillips/Eco Paint Specialist's/303.591.4978 http://www.ecopaintspecialists.com/
Cal Phillips/Eco Paint Specialist's/303.591.4978 http://www.ecopaintspecialists.com/
Exterior Painting Denver Metro Area
Bring your house back to life with a new fresh exterior paint job, protecting your home from the harsh elements and climates Colorado has from time to time. Waiting or putting off can result in more costly repairs not originally seen. Eco Paint Specialists takes pride in helping our local community protecting exterior surfaces of many's largest investments, the home.
Giving you a compete schedule for your exterior painting project, with estimated time of completion, and estimated number of workers we plan putting on the job.
Not cutting any corners, we power wash first, leaving to dry for 24-48 hours. Then upon second arrival we get to work. Scraping, Caulking, and Priming, we insure our paint job will last for many years to come. Providing a 3 year Workmanship warranty, and paint typically has it's warranty 15-20 years. After our prep. is completed, we spray the body 2 coats, and brush and roll the trim 2, putting on 13 mills wet. This is the most paint that can be applied before it will sag, run, or drip.
Each day, we police the grounds, picking up debris, cleaning up before we leave, doing the same at the end. Call us today for your free estimate. Cal Phillips 303.591.4978 or see us at http://www.ecopaintspecialists.com/ / http://www.paintingexterior.net / http://www.paintinginterior.net/ http://www.paintingdenver.net
Giving you a compete schedule for your exterior painting project, with estimated time of completion, and estimated number of workers we plan putting on the job.
Not cutting any corners, we power wash first, leaving to dry for 24-48 hours. Then upon second arrival we get to work. Scraping, Caulking, and Priming, we insure our paint job will last for many years to come. Providing a 3 year Workmanship warranty, and paint typically has it's warranty 15-20 years. After our prep. is completed, we spray the body 2 coats, and brush and roll the trim 2, putting on 13 mills wet. This is the most paint that can be applied before it will sag, run, or drip.
Each day, we police the grounds, picking up debris, cleaning up before we leave, doing the same at the end. Call us today for your free estimate. Cal Phillips 303.591.4978 or see us at http://www.ecopaintspecialists.com/ / http://www.paintingexterior.net / http://www.paintinginterior.net/ http://www.paintingdenver.net
Saturday, February 7, 2009
Interior Painting Tips
Let's get right into the meat of this subject, without any intros or thank you. If you are considering doing interior painting yourself, I commend you for your assertiveness, as many get into this venture, only to hire a professional. Tips below will make your task at hand much more easier and professional when you get to the end.
Before you bust open a can of paint, you should;
1) Take some pictures of your rooms. Pictures taken will come in handy upon completion, putting decor back exactly as it was before.
2) Remove all wall hangings, leaving nails if you wish to place back exactly after painting. If you plan on re-arranging decor, simply pull the nails.
3) Now that you have taken pics, removed wall hangings, leaving or removing nails, it's time to start the preparations. This part of the painting project is the most important, as if done properly will make you a shinning star with your spouse, not to mention, will look as professional as possible.
4) Tools you will need;
a. Depending on how much painting is to be done, will determine the size of roller. Most people use the typical 9" roller with typical roller pan. If you have several rooms, and lots of sq. footage of walls/ceilings, I would recommend a 14" roller. 18" rollers are way too heavy loaded with paint for the common paint job, but has it's value when back-rolling say and exterior application. 9" rollers way too small, and 18" rollers too heavy. 14" rollers are also not available in typical retail chains such as Lowe's, Home Depot's. Here in Denver, your Sherwin-William's, Kwal-Howell's Paint Stores, Benjamin Moore's, ICI's, are the places to pick these up. The best one is Labat's with wooden handle and steel frame. No plastic fall apart made in China, after 1 hour of use. Do yourself a favor and spend a few more dollars getting the best. If you are painting ceilings with popcorn, get a 1 1/4-1 1/2"" thick roller skin, if knock-down texture, use a 3/4" skin. If painting both, get both size skins, as you will not want to intermix them. One for ceilings, one for walls. You will need a special roller pan designed for the extra wide roller, and vary in price. We use "Speed Buckets", as the are low to the ground, has a pour spout, and hangers for ladders.
b. Let's talk brushes. For goodness sakes, do not get a 1"-2" brush no matter how good looking and cute they may be. Each brush stroke requires the same amount of effort, so speed up the process with a larger one. Best brush, gives best results, and the ol' saying, you get what you pay for is so profound when buying brushes. Best brushes made are the Purdee's. Purdee's have the thickest base, holding the most paint, without running down the handle. Also, Purdee's will leave the smoothest strokes, with little to no brush strokes. Go with a 3 1/2" - 4" angle Purdee if you plan doing trim, and 4" Pip squared end for large surfaces such as doors.
c. You will need a masker and blade. 3-M has a patent on these, and you cannot go too far astray getting one, however blade is equally important. DO NOT GET A PAPER BLADE. The metal blades designed for cutting plastic will also cut paper, but metal blades designed for cutting paper, will not cut plastic. Both cost the same, however metal blades designed for cutting plastic film have a finer serrated edge, making much sharper.
d. Now you have roller/pan/masker/blade, you need to get a few more items that may be in the garage.
Proper ladders, A-frames, Extensions. One small jobs we like Little Giant's, a
versatile ladder that converts from A-frame to extension in a matter of
seconds. Just be sure it is rated for your weight. Typically a B rated is industry
standards.
Extension pole for roller. If not high ceilings, and just walls, a telescoping 4' - 8'
e-pole is the best.
Drippless Caulking gun
Razor knife with new blades
5-Way painter's tool that has a half moon cutout on one side of blade
Masking tape, (blue if your painting walls a different color than ceilings/baseboards
Plastic film, size depends on need, but if rolling/brushing, no more than 4' wide is
needed.
Brown paper, either 9" or 12" for paint grade applications. (one roll per 10' X 10' rm)
1 tube of latex caulk per 10' X 10' rm
Box of good stain rags
2 1/2 gallon cut-in bucket with ladder hook, purchased separately
Flathead screwdriver, removing switch plates, curtian rods, etc.
6) If you are rolling/brushing walls only, no need to mask entire floor, but ceilings YES. Having a good drop-cloth is a plus. We use a drop, putting down as a work station, pouring into pans/buckets. On large walls, especially high ones, a good 4' X 15' runner drop is good to have. Having more than one will most likely ensure one will always be dry, and your not tracking paint splatters on to non-covered areas. So stretch out both side by side along wall areas, moving from one to another as work finishes. Picking up last one moving down past the other. On a typical 8' ceiling height, it's good to stay away from wall surface at least 4'. 16' high wall, 8' away, using e-pole lengths accordingly.
7) Now you have the tools of the trade, your ready to really get started, and let's say your painting walls, ceiling, and trim, as most of the time this is done with different colors and sheens. You start with the top, working down, and we will be working with the top of walls first. It is much easier to mask walls than ceilings. So, take your brush with wall paint and cut in corner on wall to ceiling, not caring too much of getting wall paint on ceiling, as I will describe later. However, dark colors are harder to cover, so you be the judge. After you cut in walls to ceilings, stop, and take a break, because you will need it for the work quickly approching.
7) Finish cutting in all tape joints, around doors, electrical outlets, corners of rooms. This way you can roll with ease, overlapping paint with roller, for a "Second coat".
7) Drop floor area, pour mixed paint into speed bucket, roll into paint, getting roller thoroughly saturated and loaded with paint. Start with one corner, working along one side of ceiling.
Now here is Tip #1. As you re-dip roller, always keep roller frame pointed the same direction, as I say the frame is an arrow of direction in the way you are traveling. Do not flip roller frame back and forth rolling out surfaces, or you will have heavy, thicker lines of paint when dried. Think of frame as the arrow, and the direction you will be going, as you cannot start against a wall on ceiling with the frame pointed to wall anyway. Keep this tip throughout entire paint job, and your on your way to a uniform finish. That's not to say coming to a corner you cannot fudge a bit, feathering out last row, but use the frame as an arrow 99% of the time. Roller frames have a different amount of pressure when rolling, and will cause the uneven paint lines, if "Flipping" or reversing roller frame each time after dipping it, so you've been warned.
7) Now the ceilings have been rolled out, it's time for walls. Using ladder, cut-bucket and angle brush, you'll want to cut in walls to ceiling. Taking long strokes close to the top is after you've slowly cut in, bending bristles
Before you bust open a can of paint, you should;
1) Take some pictures of your rooms. Pictures taken will come in handy upon completion, putting decor back exactly as it was before.
2) Remove all wall hangings, leaving nails if you wish to place back exactly after painting. If you plan on re-arranging decor, simply pull the nails.
3) Now that you have taken pics, removed wall hangings, leaving or removing nails, it's time to start the preparations. This part of the painting project is the most important, as if done properly will make you a shinning star with your spouse, not to mention, will look as professional as possible.
4) Tools you will need;
a. Depending on how much painting is to be done, will determine the size of roller. Most people use the typical 9" roller with typical roller pan. If you have several rooms, and lots of sq. footage of walls/ceilings, I would recommend a 14" roller. 18" rollers are way too heavy loaded with paint for the common paint job, but has it's value when back-rolling say and exterior application. 9" rollers way too small, and 18" rollers too heavy. 14" rollers are also not available in typical retail chains such as Lowe's, Home Depot's. Here in Denver, your Sherwin-William's, Kwal-Howell's Paint Stores, Benjamin Moore's, ICI's, are the places to pick these up. The best one is Labat's with wooden handle and steel frame. No plastic fall apart made in China, after 1 hour of use. Do yourself a favor and spend a few more dollars getting the best. If you are painting ceilings with popcorn, get a 1 1/4-1 1/2"" thick roller skin, if knock-down texture, use a 3/4" skin. If painting both, get both size skins, as you will not want to intermix them. One for ceilings, one for walls. You will need a special roller pan designed for the extra wide roller, and vary in price. We use "Speed Buckets", as the are low to the ground, has a pour spout, and hangers for ladders.
b. Let's talk brushes. For goodness sakes, do not get a 1"-2" brush no matter how good looking and cute they may be. Each brush stroke requires the same amount of effort, so speed up the process with a larger one. Best brush, gives best results, and the ol' saying, you get what you pay for is so profound when buying brushes. Best brushes made are the Purdee's. Purdee's have the thickest base, holding the most paint, without running down the handle. Also, Purdee's will leave the smoothest strokes, with little to no brush strokes. Go with a 3 1/2" - 4" angle Purdee if you plan doing trim, and 4" Pip squared end for large surfaces such as doors.
c. You will need a masker and blade. 3-M has a patent on these, and you cannot go too far astray getting one, however blade is equally important. DO NOT GET A PAPER BLADE. The metal blades designed for cutting plastic will also cut paper, but metal blades designed for cutting paper, will not cut plastic. Both cost the same, however metal blades designed for cutting plastic film have a finer serrated edge, making much sharper.
d. Now you have roller/pan/masker/blade, you need to get a few more items that may be in the garage.
Proper ladders, A-frames, Extensions. One small jobs we like Little Giant's, a
versatile ladder that converts from A-frame to extension in a matter of
seconds. Just be sure it is rated for your weight. Typically a B rated is industry
standards.
Extension pole for roller. If not high ceilings, and just walls, a telescoping 4' - 8'
e-pole is the best.
Drippless Caulking gun
Razor knife with new blades
5-Way painter's tool that has a half moon cutout on one side of blade
Masking tape, (blue if your painting walls a different color than ceilings/baseboards
Plastic film, size depends on need, but if rolling/brushing, no more than 4' wide is
needed.
Brown paper, either 9" or 12" for paint grade applications. (one roll per 10' X 10' rm)
1 tube of latex caulk per 10' X 10' rm
Box of good stain rags
2 1/2 gallon cut-in bucket with ladder hook, purchased separately
Flathead screwdriver, removing switch plates, curtian rods, etc.
Tip #1
5) Tape around door jambs, and floor areas. If floor is carpeted, press carpet down, tape as low as you can to baseboard. If floor is wood, tape wood floor as close to base as you can. Once taped, it's time to caulk. Cut tube at a angle taking off just the tip. This way, only a small amount will come out of your "Drippless Caulking Gun". Caulk tape lines using finger to wipe excess, and even going a step further, wiping with a sopping wet rag. Your wipping off as much caulk as you can, leaving only a film of caulk to seal tape edge, so that paint does not migrate under it. When you pull the tape, only the finest amount is there that cannot be detected.
6) If you are rolling/brushing walls only, no need to mask entire floor, but ceilings YES. Having a good drop-cloth is a plus. We use a drop, putting down as a work station, pouring into pans/buckets. On large walls, especially high ones, a good 4' X 15' runner drop is good to have. Having more than one will most likely ensure one will always be dry, and your not tracking paint splatters on to non-covered areas. So stretch out both side by side along wall areas, moving from one to another as work finishes. Picking up last one moving down past the other. On a typical 8' ceiling height, it's good to stay away from wall surface at least 4'. 16' high wall, 8' away, using e-pole lengths accordingly.
7) Now you have the tools of the trade, your ready to really get started, and let's say your painting walls, ceiling, and trim, as most of the time this is done with different colors and sheens. You start with the top, working down, and we will be working with the top of walls first. It is much easier to mask walls than ceilings. So, take your brush with wall paint and cut in corner on wall to ceiling, not caring too much of getting wall paint on ceiling, as I will describe later. However, dark colors are harder to cover, so you be the judge. After you cut in walls to ceilings, stop, and take a break, because you will need it for the work quickly approching.
7) Finish cutting in all tape joints, around doors, electrical outlets, corners of rooms. This way you can roll with ease, overlapping paint with roller, for a "Second coat".
7) Drop floor area, pour mixed paint into speed bucket, roll into paint, getting roller thoroughly saturated and loaded with paint. Start with one corner, working along one side of ceiling.
Now here is Tip #1. As you re-dip roller, always keep roller frame pointed the same direction, as I say the frame is an arrow of direction in the way you are traveling. Do not flip roller frame back and forth rolling out surfaces, or you will have heavy, thicker lines of paint when dried. Think of frame as the arrow, and the direction you will be going, as you cannot start against a wall on ceiling with the frame pointed to wall anyway. Keep this tip throughout entire paint job, and your on your way to a uniform finish. That's not to say coming to a corner you cannot fudge a bit, feathering out last row, but use the frame as an arrow 99% of the time. Roller frames have a different amount of pressure when rolling, and will cause the uneven paint lines, if "Flipping" or reversing roller frame each time after dipping it, so you've been warned.
7) Now the ceilings have been rolled out, it's time for walls. Using ladder, cut-bucket and angle brush, you'll want to cut in walls to ceiling. Taking long strokes close to the top is after you've slowly cut in, bending bristles
Wednesday, January 14, 2009
Most Technical Residential Exterior Paint Job to Date
Painting over 32 years, having used 4-wheel drive booms for commercial applications several times, and swing staging off the top of high rise buildings, similar to window washers, I had never encountered needing a boom for a local residential home in our area, until this one. Knowing the attached greenhouse would not support a man walking around on top, we needed to paint just above greenhouse, to complete the job. This was left to the last portion, however we had already planned for the booms arrival on the last day. Rented from Wagner Rents, they were very prompt delivering equipment. Once unloaded, it took all of 3-4 hours to complete, as we used the 80' boom to paint all the way up. You may say, "Why an eighty foot?" which is a good question. I questioned that myself, and is the reason I requested Wagner Rents salesman to examine the job before we started. The biggest hurdle was the back yard of say 25' deep and 6' fence. When extending that far out, there's a lot of weight on the arm, and shorter boom could easily tip into the fence, and cause great damage to the greenhouse.
additional info.
Tuesday, January 13, 2009
Cedar Siding Replacement
This past year my neighbor requested 3 sides of their home replaced with the same 1 X 6 beveled lap siding originally used when our homes were built. However, the thinnest portion at the top was only 1/16" thick, and had newer material specially milled with that same end 1/4" thick. This may sound picky, but giving that extra amount at the top, and underneath lap, material would be less likely to crack/split and curl.
Once old cedar siding was removed, we called out utility company alerting them we were pulling back breakerbox from siding. This did not cost any additional expense, and seemed to be happy we included them in our construction operations. Once removed from siding (home still had power) we installed vapor barrier Tyvek before new cedar went up. This product is great, sealing out wind, moisture, still allowing to only breathe outward. This helps the R factor, especaially in our weather conditions and climate changes.
Once Tyvek was installed horizontally, overlapping from top to bottom, cedar was ready to go up. We fastened with very few galvanized 8 penny nails, say 1%, using primarily 1 1/2" galvanized screws from a squarehead Senco screw gun. This way as the wind may kick up on occassions, and temperture changes occur, and any movements to siding will be very less likely, fastening down with screws instead of nails. I know ring shank nails work ok, but nothing like screws!
Another good idea, is after new cedar is insalled, allow it to dry out from the mill a couple weeks before any stain is applied. Most painting companies will not want to do this, as it holds up completion, but lumberyards will tell you different. Treating each job as if were our very own, you cannot go wrong choosing Eco Paint Specialist's for your painting and siding needs.
additional info.
Monday, January 12, 2009
Another painting season is upon us.
Exterior paint job in Ken Caryl Colorado. 
We also stained this home's new deck in the back with Sikken's Dark Mohagany translucent deck stain, brushing 2 coats using a wet on dry application.
Painting Denver
Painting Interior
Painting Exterior
Eco Paint Specialists
additional info.
http://www.merchantcircle.com/blogs/MerchantCircle.Marketing.Advisor.Cal.Phillips.Aurora.CO..303-591-4978
http://www.ecopaintspecialists.com/
We also stained this home's new deck in the back with Sikken's Dark Mohagany translucent deck stain, brushing 2 coats using a wet on dry application.Painting Denver
Painting Interior
Painting Exterior
Eco Paint Specialists
additional info.
http://www.merchantcircle.com/blogs/MerchantCircle.Marketing.Advisor.Cal.Phillips.Aurora.CO..303-591-4978
http://www.ecopaintspecialists.com/
Sikken's Deck Stain Project
A few people in this world know the qualities of Sikken's products, as the Sikken's Company spends the least amount in marketing, knowing they have the best products hands down, while others spend millions each year, having the worst, not even lasting 6 months, such as Thompson's Water Seal Deck products.
Most deck stain products are of an average quality, and a medium price, say around $25.00 a gallon, depending on what part of the country you live. Not wishing to disscredit Thompson's, I'm just giving an example of what I've seen as the worse, also working wtih the best as Sikken's. Sikken's products typically cost anywhere from $50-75.00 a gallon depending on exact product choice, and location.
Price in one of the major items that drives up the cost of deck stain job, but not the only one. On the back of the can, detailed instructions are given, explictely stating all material must be hand brushed. Not rolled, not sprayed, and not ragged. A fine oil finish brush should be used, and can clean up with Mineral Spirits or Laquer Thinner. Large sufaces such as floors, I would strongly recogmend a 4" wide brush, cutting down the stroke time. Speaking of strokes, the amount of brush strokes will make you go crazy if very large. Each sq. inch should be brushed 3-4 times, working product in to a smooth consistant level. Better to go thin, and apply several wet on dry coats, than to overload one, risking a default in adheasion. Just plan on getting use of that elbow, like you've never done before. My trick on brush storage is using a new empy plastic Maxwell House coffee container with built in handle, cutting an X in the middle of the lid. Pouring solovent a few inches into container, and when brush is finished for the day, place the brush in the can, running handle through X, snapping lid shut. Still store container safely away from animals, and small children, as this can be quite harmfull, if not fatal is induced. Great thing is brush will not harden up, and be ready when you are. This technique also saves and conserves solovents to properly dispose. (Talk to your local waste management site for exaxt instructions)
Sikken's products are made in Sweden, developed for extreme climates as in the Alps. Sikken's have coined the word unlike any otther deck stain out there, either being "Solid body" or "Semi-transparent" Sikken's word is "TRANSLUCENT". Which I describe as a deep varnished finish, the more coats that is applied over the years. Mine looks like a baby grand piano attached to our home. Protection is second to none, providing a hard finish, that makes all wood surfaces slick and bullet proof. A cryesoak without the smell. Noticed I said slick, and can be dangerous with ice or snow on it. In Denver, and getting a few feet sometimes, I like the slick surface for removal purposes. I can take a shop broom out and sweep 1 foot at a time, with the upmost ease. However, with a lot of foot traffic from either animals or man during ice and snow, this would not be recogmended.
Sikken's comes in 15-20 color choices that cannot be tinted, which is a good thing in a sence. Remembering which shade used, you can always get more later on in a select few places in town. Typically Ben Moore Paint locations carry, but you may need to check with your local paint companies.
Having used a solid body, semi-trans, and now Sikken's for the last 6-7 years, I can honestly say I would not put nothing else on my persoanal deck than Sikken's. When I re-coat, which I did this past summer 08', I was shocked how little I used coating twice, two different days. Looked like a millon dollars without having to powerwash. Just a light rinse is needed if you maintain it, catching before it degrades beyond repair. On a deck that takes 3 -4 gallons first coat, second application may only take 2-3. Third application only takes 1-2. I was on my 4th. and used a 1/2 gallon!!! You can see it pays for itself in the long run, not having to use near as much, but labor is the same, whether you do it, or hire it out, on any product your choosing. Hiring out, labor is typically 4-5 times as more than spray method, brushing till the cows come home, but is well worth the added expense for duration, and enjoyment. When we have friends over, out on our deck, everyone notices what a fine looking finish it is, but has no idea what was used.
Most deck stain products are of an average quality, and a medium price, say around $25.00 a gallon, depending on what part of the country you live. Not wishing to disscredit Thompson's, I'm just giving an example of what I've seen as the worse, also working wtih the best as Sikken's. Sikken's products typically cost anywhere from $50-75.00 a gallon depending on exact product choice, and location.
Price in one of the major items that drives up the cost of deck stain job, but not the only one. On the back of the can, detailed instructions are given, explictely stating all material must be hand brushed. Not rolled, not sprayed, and not ragged. A fine oil finish brush should be used, and can clean up with Mineral Spirits or Laquer Thinner. Large sufaces such as floors, I would strongly recogmend a 4" wide brush, cutting down the stroke time. Speaking of strokes, the amount of brush strokes will make you go crazy if very large. Each sq. inch should be brushed 3-4 times, working product in to a smooth consistant level. Better to go thin, and apply several wet on dry coats, than to overload one, risking a default in adheasion. Just plan on getting use of that elbow, like you've never done before. My trick on brush storage is using a new empy plastic Maxwell House coffee container with built in handle, cutting an X in the middle of the lid. Pouring solovent a few inches into container, and when brush is finished for the day, place the brush in the can, running handle through X, snapping lid shut. Still store container safely away from animals, and small children, as this can be quite harmfull, if not fatal is induced. Great thing is brush will not harden up, and be ready when you are. This technique also saves and conserves solovents to properly dispose. (Talk to your local waste management site for exaxt instructions)
Sikken's products are made in Sweden, developed for extreme climates as in the Alps. Sikken's have coined the word unlike any otther deck stain out there, either being "Solid body" or "Semi-transparent" Sikken's word is "TRANSLUCENT". Which I describe as a deep varnished finish, the more coats that is applied over the years. Mine looks like a baby grand piano attached to our home. Protection is second to none, providing a hard finish, that makes all wood surfaces slick and bullet proof. A cryesoak without the smell. Noticed I said slick, and can be dangerous with ice or snow on it. In Denver, and getting a few feet sometimes, I like the slick surface for removal purposes. I can take a shop broom out and sweep 1 foot at a time, with the upmost ease. However, with a lot of foot traffic from either animals or man during ice and snow, this would not be recogmended.
Sikken's comes in 15-20 color choices that cannot be tinted, which is a good thing in a sence. Remembering which shade used, you can always get more later on in a select few places in town. Typically Ben Moore Paint locations carry, but you may need to check with your local paint companies.
Having used a solid body, semi-trans, and now Sikken's for the last 6-7 years, I can honestly say I would not put nothing else on my persoanal deck than Sikken's. When I re-coat, which I did this past summer 08', I was shocked how little I used coating twice, two different days. Looked like a millon dollars without having to powerwash. Just a light rinse is needed if you maintain it, catching before it degrades beyond repair. On a deck that takes 3 -4 gallons first coat, second application may only take 2-3. Third application only takes 1-2. I was on my 4th. and used a 1/2 gallon!!! You can see it pays for itself in the long run, not having to use near as much, but labor is the same, whether you do it, or hire it out, on any product your choosing. Hiring out, labor is typically 4-5 times as more than spray method, brushing till the cows come home, but is well worth the added expense for duration, and enjoyment. When we have friends over, out on our deck, everyone notices what a fine looking finish it is, but has no idea what was used.
addtional info.
Eco Paint Specialist's Inc.
Just had 5" of snow today here in Denver. Not all that bad, as we need the moisture, not getting that much in December. Hopefully everyone had a joyous Christmas holiday season, with family and friends. This was a time for us to construct a new audio file on our website http://www.ecopaintspecialists.com , that we may also use on radio this year. May change it up to fit the season, as Spring is quickly approching. The current audio feed is generic in nature. Hope you enjoy sight and now SOUND!
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